Brunei Through Fresh Eyes: A Weekend Journey with Jin

In October 2024, I had the absolute pleasure of hosting my longtime friend, Dr. Jin Peh, during his brief but memorable visit to Brunei. With just a short window of time, we crafted an itinerary that encapsulated the essence of Brunei’s culture, history, and natural beauty while ensuring it was both fun and enriching.

Jin, the author of Practical Feng Shui Tips, is an expert in geomancy and a dear friend from our days at Western Australia International; College (WAIC) in Perth in 1987. His visit was not only an opportunity to reconnect, and also a chance to showcase the beauty and charm of Brunei Darussalam, the place I call home.

It’s often said that we only appreciate what we have when we share it with others. For those of us who live here, iconic landmarks and hidden gems are sometimes taken for granted. Hosting a friend reminds us of the rich tapestry of Brunei’s heritage. Jin’s visit was a testament to this, and his perspective added a fresh appreciation for the places we explored together.

Saturday Evening: A Culinary Welcome

Our Journey unfolded on Saturday evening when Jin arrived. After picking him up from the airport, we headed to Neptune Seafood Restaurant in Jerudong, a local favorite renowned for its fresh seafood and relaxed ambiance near the beach. Over a delectable dinner, we discussed our plans and shared stories from college days.

Post-dinner, we had a walkabout around The Empire Hotel. Though it was late, the majestic resort and the sounds of waves crashing along the coast offered a serene close to the evening.

Sunday: Cultural Immersion and Scenic Discoveries

We began Sunday morning with a visit to the Teng Yuan Temple. Starting with prayers and a photo opportunity, this serene temple, with its intricate carvings and vibrant red and gold hues, left a lasting impression. Its sweeping roofs and decorative tiles are a nod to classic Chinese architecture.

Our next stop was the Yayasan Shopping Complex. Here, we admired The Frame and the Eco Corridor (Golden Jubilee Park), capturing picture-perfect views of the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque framed against its tranquil lagoon.

The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien (SOAS) Mosque, completed in 1958, is a masterpiece of Mughal-inspired architecture. Its golden dome, marble minarets and surrounding lagoon with a replica royal barge reflect its national importance. Currently undergoing upgrades to enhance its functionality, including archives and activity spaces.

From there, we visited Istana Darussalam, located in Kampong Sumbiling Lama. This historic royal residence, built in 1947 features traditional Malay-style architecture with green and brown tones. It holds deep significance as the birthplace of Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah and a former residence of Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III.

The Royal Regalia Museum, previously the Churchill Memorial in the 1970s, was next. Originally dedicated to Winston Churchill, complete with an aquarium, it was reimagined in 1992 showcasing Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah’s regalia and commemorate his Silver and Golden Jubilee celebrations. Its grand design, featuring regal spaces and historical artifacts, offered the perfect setting for more photographs.

For lunch, we headed to Serai and introduced Jin to Ambuyat, a traditional dish made from sago starch, paired with condiments like tempoyak (fermented durian) and binjai (sour fruits). Using the bamboo chandas, Jin quickly got the hang of twirling the sticky ambuyat, adding a layer of fun to the meal.

Our cultural tour continued with a visit to the Ash Shaliheen Mosque, a serene space celebrated for its architectural elegance and minimalist Islamic design. Inspired by Persian aesthetics, the mosque blends traditional Islamic styles with modern elements, drawing influence from Middle Eastern mosques, likely from regions such as Iraq or Iran. Its sophisticated architecture, adorned with Islamic calligraphy and a striking dome, is complemented by tranquil gardens that enhance its peaceful ambiance. This harmonious integration of simplicity and grandeur makes it a standout architectural gem in Brunei.

We then continued our tour at the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, one of the largest and most magnificent mosques in Brunei. Built to commemorate the Sultan's silver jubilee, this architectural marvel boasts 29 golden domes and towering minarets, symbolizing a blend of traditional Islamic and modern styles. The mosque's sprawling grounds, adorned with fountains and pathways, offer a tranquil setting that enhances its grandeur. Inside, the ornate interiors showcase exquisite details that emphasize Brunei's Islamic heritage. Since its opening in 1994, the Jame' Asr Mosque has stood as a spiritual and architectural landmark.

We also visited the Balai Khazanah Islam Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah, a museum dedicated to preserving and showcasing Brunei’s rich Islamic heritage. Inaugurated in 2019, this architectural masterpiece blends modern design with traditional Islamic motifs, creating a space that is both visually stunning and deeply symbolic. It houses nine galleries featuring rare Islamic manuscripts, ornately decorated Qurans, and artifacts from His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah’s private collection. The Balai functions as a cultural and intellectual hub with a library, prayer hall and conference facilities, serving as a beacon of cultural pride and intellectual significance.

We took a scenic drive to the Sultan Haji Omar 'Ali Saifuddien (SOAS) Bridge, a massive 26.3-kilometer structure linking Bandar Seri Begawan to the Temburong District. Opened in 2020, this engineering marvel has significantly reduced travel time, previously reliant on river transport or detours through Malaysia. Beyond its functional importance, the bridge symbolizes Brunei's commitment to modernization and national unity.

In contrast, The Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Saleha (RIPAS) or Lumapas Bridge, while not as prominent as the SOAS Bridge, remains a key component of Brunei’s transport infrastructure. Connecting various parts of the capital region, it plays an essential role in easing traffic congestion and improving logistical efficiency.

A Relaxed Evening The day concluded with dinner at Excapade, a beloved local Japanese restaurant chain. Over sushi and sashimi, Jin shared insights on Feng Shui, sparking enlightening conversations. We ended the evening at Coffee Bean, reminiscing about college days and delving deeper into Chinese metaphysics.

 

A Weekend to Remember Despite the tight schedule, every stop, conversation and laugh made this whirlwind weekend unforgettable. Jin’s visit reminded me of the beauty and culture we often overlook, thinking, “I’ll visit someday.” His fresh perspective was an inspiration.

Thank you Jin, for letting me share my favorite spots in Brunei. It was a visit I’ll always treasure and I can’t wait for our next adventure!