© Chris Leong 2010

Tuesday, January 28, 2025

Reunion Dinners Through the Years

This reflective post shares the personal journey of Chinese New Year reunion dinners, focusing on the evolution of traditions, the significance of Hakka dishes and the meaningful practices of lou sang and shou sui. It honors loved ones who are no longer present while celebrating the resilience of traditions. With rich cultural heritage at its core, the post offers a heartfelt look at family, loss and hope for the future.


Celebrating Family, Honoring Tradition


Reunion dinners have always held a special place in my heart, symbolizing family unity and cherished moments. It is an essential part of Chinese New Year celebrations, rooted in the belief of starting the year with a gathering that brings harmony, love and prosperity to the family. For Hakka families like ours, the reunion dinner often features traditional dishes that embody these values. Staples such as kau yuk (扣肉, braised pork belly with preserved mustard greens), stuffed tofu (yong tau foo, 酿豆腐), and savory steamed dishes symbolize abundance, togetherness and good fortune.

Since the 2000s, our family reunions were often incomplete, as either my late brother or I would be absent during Chinese New Year. Despite this, about 15 years ago, I made it a point to ensure that reunion dinners with my parents became a tradition. It was my way of keeping our family connected, no matter the circumstances.

My brother passed away 15 years ago, leaving a void that could never be filled. In 2012, My Moo J joined our family reunions, adding new warmth and joy to the gatherings. By 2016, even Snowbell, our beloved furry family member, became part of the tradition. Snowbell’s excitement for reunion dinner was unmatched — he loved salmon sashimi, and during our lou sang (捞生, tossing of the prosperity platter), he would always hurry us up so he could enjoy his favorite treat. Watching him eagerly wait for his "reunion dinner" became a cherished part of our celebrations.


The lou sang is a significant and joyful tradition that embodies the essence of reunion dinners. Each ingredient in the platter represents a blessing for the year ahead — prosperity, health, success and unity. Tossing the ingredients high while chanting auspicious phrases is a shared activity that strengthens familial bonds and sets an optimistic tone for the year. Snowbell’s enthusiasm during this ritual always brought laughter and joy to our gatherings.


In 2020, life changed when my mum passed away. For 2021, our reunion dinner included just my dad, Him, Snowbell and me. Though smaller, we kept the tradition alive, but Snowbell’s absence in 2022 was deeply felt. The following year, in 2023, there was no reunion dinner as my dad was hospitalized, leaving an even bigger void. After his passing in October 2023, the emptiness was palpable for CNY in 2024,, and the tradition as we knew it seemed to drift further away.


In previous years, my late brother and I kept the tradition of staying up past midnight on Chinese New Year’s Eve to ensure our parentals' longevity. This practice, known as shou sui (守岁), is a gesture of respect and love, symbolizing the wish for long life and good health for the elders. After my dad's passing, I have continued this practice, now ensuring His longevity. Together, we also maintain this tradition for his parentals, keeping the spirit of the custom alive.


This year, 2025, marks the first time I am truly alone for Chinese New Year. He is spending the holiday with his family in KL, leaving me with time to reflect on the journey of our reunions. Although the table will be empty, the memories remain vibrant. Snowbell’s eager antics during lou sang and the laughter we shared with each toss stay with me, reminding me of the love and joy that defined those moments.

Though this year is quiet, I hold hope for the future — perhaps one day, the tradition will take on new forms, bringing together old and new memories. I imagine future reunions filled with the same warmth, laughter and love that have always been at the heart of these gatherings. For now, I’ll honor the past in my own way, savoring a small serving of salmon sashimi, as Snowbell would have wanted and cherishing the love that continues to linger in my heart.

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